the Hell of Neiafu

I'm a firm believer that 99% of the people of the world are fundamentally good people. That other 1% that rear their heads up from time to time are evil and can ruin a day quickly. The vast majority of the places we've have had the privilege to see has been sublime and the people divine. I can't say that for the vast majority of the encounters we have had in the city of Neiafu in the Northern Group of Isles in Tonga. Below is a true story of burglary, dirty streets, inept (possibly corrupt) government, and a people that for the most part I don't like.

We arrived in Neiafu on Thursday the 10th of June. We had more a four day passage from the splendid isle of Niue without the aid of autopilot with four hour shifts on and off for those four days. Needless to say we were very tired when we arrived in Neiafu. As winds had been non-existent, we had run our engine a lot and were thus down to the very last of our fuel and decided not to run the generator that night. We waited on the fishing wharf (guarded by a guard we now know sleeps on shift) for the fuel delivery by truck the next morning. As I was down below, I heard two unfamiliar voices calling, "Anybody Aboard?", several times. I did not answer and the boys put hand to rails. I ran up and confronted the boys who sheepishly stood there while I chewed them out, asked them for their names which they gave as "John and Moses" and then offered them a Coke. I took a picture of them while they watched and told them if anything came up missing, the first people I would come looking for would be them. Before going to sleep, I had mingled a little with people on a boat called the "Royal Princess", two young Indonesian males. Exhausted, I headed to bed. In the morning, I awoke and quickly saw that my camera, laptop, and one of dad's knives were gone. We couldn't believe that someone/s would have the audacity to make their way into the salon where my camera and laptop were. The knife was in the cockpit above. It could have been very bad for everyone involved had we awakened

Of course, the camera with the photo of the young Tongan boys was gone with the camera and computer. I quickly made my way up to the police department, that lacked a filing system, a photocopier, and cops with much interest in helping. One detective followed me down to the "Royal Princess" where I approached the boat asking to talk to the young Indonesians, one of whom ducked quickly into the cabin. The detective was afraid to approach the boat. I received a very defensive response from the owner of the boat. When I explained that I just "wanted to ask a few questions to see if his crew saw anything," he angrily told me to get the police which I did. I told the detective that he needed to board the boat. He was hesitant but finally did, missing the opportunity to possibly see the kid stashing our belongings.

Over the course of the next four days, I talked to several hundred people and offered a large reward with no questions asked, sent a message over the sailor's net, and had friends in the Arc keep a sharp look-out. Talking to Tongans in a very respectful manner, they seemed disinterested in helping, some even lied about finding the two boys "John and Moses". As I walked the streets, looking at the filth, the chains and locks on the doors, the garbage strewn everywhere, kids making obscene gestures as we passed by, I wished I had never made landfall in this wretched place. Coincidentally, in my investigation I found the young Indonesians walking the street who then saw me, turned to each other, and changed direction when I approached them. I got them to stop and got them to show me their sandals (a track had been left on the boat). They didn't match, unfortunately, but then again, it's possible to have more than one pair of sandals, right? One of the kids quickly showed me his sandals as the other looked down at his before lifting his feet. I found out later, the boat "Royal Princess" is aptly named for it is owned by the relative of the King of Tonga. Think that may have something to do with the fear the police had in boarding it? Sailors, if you must stop here to fuel up, do so and be on your way. If you have to stay the night, lock up and don't be as trusting as we were. Most of the boats in the Arc would agree with me on this one. Much beauty to be had around here, but not here in Neiafu.

As far as the boys: "John and Moses". Fairly common names here, actually, and the kids here all look pretty similar. To add to our wonderful time here, a 220 volt/30 milliamp circuit breaker caught on fire. Luckily all that burned was the breaker. We could have had a major electrical fire and lost the boat. Look at the sunny side of life. We were fortunate in the fact that we didn't join some of the crowd in port who had one of the myriad jellyfish get sucked up into the intake of the generator and destroy the impeller. One boat actually had one get sucked up into their toilet bowl. Beats a sea-krait, I guess.

The fourth time that I went to the police station to find a detective, I actually found one, the one who had approached the young Indonesians on the boat. The boys had said that they had at no point during the night left the boat. There's where they put the foot in the trap. They had indeed left the boat that night, as I had been talking to them on the pier. I told the Detective that he had been lied to and there's never a reason to lie in an investigation, unless there is a reason to lie in an investigation. He actually looked at me as though, he had learned an investigative technique. So, they will continue to "keep a keen eye out" (laughable). I will, too (not laughable). I will also not let my guard down again.

I'm thankful for the fact that I and/or my father didn't lose our lives and/or take two. I'm thankful I had backed up my photos, have more than they ever will(not just possessions), and that currently this wretched place is in our wake. I still wear a smile. I look forward to the next dive, seeing my wonderful family and all of you, and seeing my beautiful Merce. I have to go and set a fishing line out. A tuna is waiting for us. As always miss and love you all. Te amo, Merce.

"Brown-Eyed Girl" out...